Apply this mixture to a full strand of hair. Wait 15-20 minutes, then dry strand and check for color. If it has not been reached, re-apply mix­ ture and repeat test frequently until desired shade is achieved. Rinse immediately and dry. Record the length of time it has taken to lighten the strand and use it to gauge approximate time the full treatment will require.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR DURING THE STRAND TEST

• If, after the first color check, hair is not light enough, mixture
  must be reapplied and left on for a longer time.
• If hair is too light after the first color check, mixture must be left
  on for a shorter time or a milder formula considered, depending
  on hair condition.
• If hair is extremely strong and resistant and if strand test indicated
  that greater speed and lightening action would be needed to reach
  shade required for toner selected, you should plan to use Ultra
  Blue Lady Clairol and three envelopes of Protinator for full treatment
  , strand testing first.

• If strand test shows that reduced lightening will be sufficient, one
  Lightening Booster (one Protinator with Ultra-Blue) may be used
  in full treatment. Strand test new mixture to check timing.
• If hair is very dark, it may not lighten sufficiently in one applica­
  tion, in which case additional treatments may be necessary. If a
  second is required, it is a good policy to allow a day or two to
  elapse between treatments.
• If hair has been damaged, the strand test must be carefully ob­
  served for any indication of breakage or discoloration. If this
  happens, do not proceed with the treatment without first recondi­
  tioning and retesting. If the desired color is achieved and no
  breakage occurs, you may proceed with full treatment.

PRE-BLEACHING WITH BLUE LIGHTENING

Blue Lightening is a high speed all-purpose powder bleach which contains Blue-Lite, an exclusive Clairol ingredient which gives it the ability to pre-bleach for the lightest of the high fashion toners in the shortest possible time. When combined with Clairoxide or Pure White Creme Developer, Blue-Lite makes the mixture turn blue so that Blue Lightening is able to produce lighter, drabber results than other powder bleaches.

Not an ordinary bleach, Blue Lightening should be used only when its extra strength and speed are needed. It is ideal for extensive bleach­ ing of extremely strong, resistant hair or stripping tint color. Blue Lightening is also used for Frosting, Tipping and Streaking (See Chap­ ter 11).

Blue Lightening's application method for virgin hair and for retouch­ing is exactly like that of any other bleach applied with a brush. How­ ever, because it lightens so quickly you should pay particular attention to the following pointers:

• Always check scalp for abrasions, eruptions or other skin condi­
  tions. If any exist, postpone treatment.
• Never omit a preliminary strand test. Wash, comb and brush the
  hair used in the strand test, then check to be sure there is no
  breakage, discoloration or any other sign of damage. If any is
  indicated, do not use Blue Lightening.
• Use only the proportions of ingredients given in the mixing instruc tions with your new Blue Lightening Hermetet package (See illus­ trated mixing directions in Chapter 8, page 77). Never add Lightening Booster or Protinator Powder to mixture.

• Avoid matting, packing or combing hair during application. Keep
  ends loose and hair strands separated to enable air to reach all
  parts of the hair and scalp, so that it can help bleaching action.
• If you are not accustomed to powder bleaches, strand test more
  frequently than you do when using creme or oil bleaches.
• When shade required for the toner selected is reached, do not carry
  bleach down hair shaft unless the patron desires a change of toner
  shade. When carrying bleach down hair shaft for this purpose, do
  not use fresh mixture. Work balance of mixture already prepared
  through hair and leave on only a few minutes. Then rinse immedi­
  ately and shampoo gently with Clairol Shampoo for Bleached and
  Toned hair.
• When part of a package is used, reseal and store. Hermetet design
  keeps Blue Lightening powder fresh.

RECONDITIONING WITH METALEX

It is advisable to give regular reconditioning treatments to patrons who have their hair bleached enough for high fashion blonding. For this we recommend frequent applications of Clairol Metalex.

Metalex, because of its specially formulated base, helps replace the natural oils destroyed through fast bleaching.

In order to continue bleaching successfully, extreme care in applica­ tion of the bleach and frequent reconditioning is necessary. If recondi­ tioning is disregarded, breakage frequently becomes unavoidable.

DO'S AND DONT'S FOR PREBLEACHING WITH LADY CLAIROL OR BLUE LIGHTENING

DO'S

• Always make a preliminary strand test.
• When recommended use plastic applicator for extra speed, other­
  wise mix bleach in a plastic or glass bowl.
• Mix to creamy consistency if using a Lady Clairol bleach. If a
  whipping device is required, be sure it is made of wood, aluminum,
  plastic or stainless steel.
• For best results use Clairoxide, Clairol Pure White Creme Devel­
  oper or fresh 20-volume peroxide.

• Wear rubber gloves to protect hands.
• Make extremely small partings.
• Use narrow fiber brush or plastic applicator for extra speed of
  application.
• Apply bleach generously—never less than a full bottle or package.
• Make frequent strand tests during development.

• For even results, make application as rapidly as possible.
• Always shampoo thoroughly after rinsing bleach from hair using
  Clairol Shampoo for Bleached and Toned Hair.
• Handle bleached hair gently—do not rub or abuse the scalp, or
  pull hair when combing after treatment.
• Re-condition highly bleached hair regularly, especially when using
  powder bleach.
• Allow at least 24 hours between treatments.

DON'TS

• Don't use if you suspect a past sensitivity, make the requisite 24
  hour preliminary patch or skin test behind either ear with the actual
  bleaching mixture to be used. If there is any burning, itching,
  swelling, irritation, eruption, abnormal reaction, or awareness of
  sensation in or around the test area, then do not apply the mixture.
• Don't give a bleach treatment if the scalp has any openings, abra­
  sions, or other abnormal condition.
• Don't use on damaged hair.
• Don't shampoo hair before applying bleach.
• Don't use stronger than 20-volume peroxide.
• Don't mix in a metallic dish.
• Don't prepare, mix or store the bleaching mixture in a closed con­
  tainer. It may burst. Discard it.
• Don't pack, mat or bunch hair. Keep it loose for circulation of air.
• Don't over-lap during re-touch.

10. Don't brush or pre-shampoo before treatment.